"The 2019 vintage is the best vintage I have ever tasted ... in my four-decade career,"... well--in terms of this value--you can do the maths.” Stuart Pigott, Riesling expert at James Suckling
“the new regime is nailing it: these were truly brilliant wines” Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
We don’t need to remind you of our enthusiasm for German Riesling, especially of the dry style. It is a scratch that we need to itch every couple of months. The quality and value that is coming out of some of Germany’s best estates is insane, and the 2019 vintage delivered one of the best in decades, meaning there is an embarrassment of riches available at the moment.
Without a keen eye, German Riesling can be a slippery slope, with prices rising in to the hundreds, sugar levels varying and quality wavering when you stray from the top tier. However, when you stick to the proven producers that farm well, strive for balance and consistently delivery freshness, power, natural acidity and length, you are rewarded.
Our top producers include Robert Weil, Koehler Ruprecht, Weingut Riebholz, Eva Fricke, Peter Lauer, Leitz, Von Hovel, Wagner Stempel, Keller, Wittman, Donnhoff and this week’s producer, Von Buhl. Most of these wines are between the $50 and $120 mark per bottle, and if you are curious, please pick up the phone and give us a call. This week’s wine though, is a steal, coming in at $28 and guaranteed to quench a thirst.
Von Buhl is an exceptional producer in the Pfalz region, organically farming 53 hectares of Riesling around the towns of Deidesheim and Forst. It was founded in 1849 and has a storied history as one of the most collected wine brands in Europe. It’s fortunes suffered along with many in German wine production, but have soared again over the last 20 years, with the transition to organics and a new, very talented, winemaker at the helm. The winemaker is Matheiu Kauffman, who was lured across to Von Buhl following 12 successful years as chef du cave (chief winemaker) at Bollinger in Champagne.
Kauffman has pushed the style to be bone dry, powerful and precise. The wines are all fermented naturally (no additions), fermented in large 2400 litre dopplestuck wooden oval vessels. Everything is gravity fed through the winery, the wines are unfiltered and sulphur has been wound back. It is truly minimal and skillful winemaking.
This Riesling is juicy, mineral, salivating and dry. There is a medium bodied generosity to it, reflective of the Pfalz and the 2019 vintage. It is driven by ripe citrus, burnt lime, mayer lemon, juicy pink grapefruit and some light underripe stone fruits. It’s the perfect wine to keep in the fridge and drink on its own as aperitif or while cooking. It is also delicious with south east Asian foods, shellfish, pork terrines and or pork sausage. A perfect wine to keep on hand and enjoy over the next two years.
Tom and Dan