Stephane e Benedicte Tissot Patchwork Chardonnay 2018 & Caves Jean Bourdy Blanc 2012
Jura, France
'How do you describe Stéphane Tissot? Perhaps ‘human firework’ comes closest. He fizzes and crackles with energy, bonhomie, positivity and creativity, and he and his wife Bénédicte have, in the 25 years since he took over from his father, turned this into one of the finest French domaines in any region.' Andrew Jefford, Decanter.
This is a stunning and unique duo of Chardonnay from the oldest wine region in the world, the Jura in eastern France. The producers are the energetic Stephane & Benedicte Tissot and the uber traditional Jean Bourdy.
Jura is in the east of France, about 80kms east of Burgundy, with the Swiss border about the same distance to the west, hitting just north of Lake Geneva. It sits at the foothills of the Jura mountains, between the famous wine town of Arbois and the village of l’Etoile to its south. It is expansive and lush vineyard and farming land, that despite a century’s old history, is having a renaissance in the current wine scene. This is partly due to its uncovered treasure of historic and traditional winemaking which is on display through producers like Caves Jean Bourdy, matched with modern, exciting, ambitious producers like Stephane Tissot, that rival Burgundy and France’s best with his electric white wine offerings.
Jura wines are diverse, with native varieties and styles. There is tangy Savignin, salty and oxidative Vin Jaune, and light, smoky, gamey reds from Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir. However, today we focus on their powerful, classic, age worthy Chardonnay wines that are commanding attention on the worlds best wine lists. In one sense, they are an affordable alternative to white burgundy, but in another, they are entirely unique and mind blowing in their own right. These two wines are a great introduction and will please any Chardonnay lovers at the same time.
Stephane e Benedicte Tissot Patchwork Chardonnay 2018
An awesome Chardonnay from the organic and biodynamic grape grower/ winemaker Stephane Tissot in Jura. This is from a couple of sites grown on clay and limestone from the warmer 2018 vintage. The wine has power and richness from the clay but a brittle, taut, chiselled mouthfeel that is delivered by the fruit from the limestone.
The wines are made naturally, with wild yeast ferments, no additions, and plenty of lees contact which builds a nutty, savoury, textural complexity. There is a briny Jura influence, but is driven by powerful ripe citrus, lemon curd, stonefruit and floral flavours that are the hallmark of top quality Chardonnay. 95 points from Wine Front in a recent review, our favourite line…. “it’s Flavour Town starring chardonnay but located in the hamlets of Jura. Complex, savoury, so darn delicious.”
Will cellar comfortably for 10+ years. Drink out of burgundy glassware, not too cold, and serve with the regions famous Comte cheese or any classic French poultry dishes.
Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 2012
Caves Jean Bourdy has been continuously managed by the same family since 1475, making it one of the oldest estates in the world. It is run by brothers Jean-François and Jean-Phillipe Bourdy, the 15th generation. They oversee 10 hectares of some of the finest terroir in the Jura, which they farm along organic and biodynamic principles. The small estate is well known for its library of vintages dating back well into the nineteenth century, and today we have a 2012 white for you that is in cracking condition.
The estate is certified biodynamic by Demeter; and with no intervention in the winemaking process, they are considered natural as well, though their wines are pristine and free of faults. Bourdy wines have been made the same way for over 100 years, and regularly sit in (old) barrel for over 3 years before bottling and release. Todays wine sees between three and four years in barrel before bottling.
This 100% Chardonnay is from 2.5 hectares of high alpine vineyards, farmed organically and handpicked before fermenting naturally. Think more lemon curd, steeliness, toast, grilled nuts, floral characters, crushed rock and fresh herbs. It is powerful and dense, shows its age, but is remarkably fresh. It is a good chance to see how a high quality, well balanced, old world white from a classic region can build power and complexity with age. Again, drink with the local cheeses, quiche and poultry dishes. It will age but we recommend enjoying over the next 12 months.